Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering
In construction, various methods are used to align the walls and improve their heat and sound insulation. One of the simplest is wall covering with drywall. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of this building material, as well as the appropriateness of its use.
Drywall consists of sheets of cardboard and gypsum filling in between. Depending on the thickness of the sheet, the presence of various kinds of additives and additives in the gypsum core, there are several types of drywall.
- Types of drywall (classification by sheet thickness)
- Fragile Material Tools
- The procedure for independent performance of work
Types of drywall (classification by sheet thickness):
- ceiling (sheet thickness 9.5 mm.);
- wall (12.5 mm);
- arched (6.5 mm).
In rooms with high humidity (bathroom, toilet), it is better to use moisture-resistant drywall (GKLV), containing special moisture-repellent and antifungal additives. Most often, sheets of moisture-proof drywall are green. You can also use simple drywall, but it is necessary to protect the front surface from moisture with moisture-resistant coatings: paint, primer, ceramic tile. In a room with normal humidity, ordinary drywall (GCR) is used. There is also fire-resistant drywall (GKLO) with additional reinforcing filling, it is used to protect against fire and high temperatures. GKLO sheets of red color.
Drywall has a lot of advantages. Firstly, good heat and sound insulation. Secondly, the use of drywall allows you to hide the wiring, heating pipes and water supply, greatly simplify the installation of lighting devices for lighting. It should be noted the simplicity and speed of installation. Cladding walls with drywall with your own hands is quite possible. To cope with the installation of structures, the basic knowledge set forth in this article is sufficient.
The main disadvantage of drywall is fragility. The gypsum board partition is much weaker than the brick, which significantly complicates the hanging on the wall of various objects. You will not be able to fix the plasma panel to the gypsum board partition if you did not foresee this possibility when installing the partition, because the structure is hollow. In addition, the use of drywall (even moisture resistant) is undesirable in rooms with a humidity of more than 70%.
Gypsum plasterboard wall covering is performed on metal galvanized profiles or on glue. Gypsum plasterboard gluing is simpler and cheaper, but possible only with a slight curvature of the walls. Here we look at the installation of drywall on metal profiles.
Fragile Material Tools
To wall the walls with drywall, we need:
- gypsum plasterboard sheets (12.5mm);
- galvanized metal profiles;
- single-level connectors (“crabs”);
- suspensions for profiles;
- scissors for metal;
- drill with drills;
- hammer drill;
- 4mm metal screws, for drywall 25mm;
- drywall knife;
- fastenings for profiles: expansion bolt shields “fast installation”;
- soundproof tape;
- plumb line;
- fishing line or thread;
- putty for sealing joints;
- putty knife.
The procedure for independent performance of work
- Mounting suspensions and profiles.
- Drywall Mounting.
1. Marking is done using tape measure, plumb line and level. First you need to determine the degree of curvature of the walls. On the wall, you need to mark the places for fixing the suspensions, to which the bearing profiles will later be attached. Suspensions should be placed strictly vertically at a distance of 80cm from each other. Along the wall on the floor and on the ceiling mark the mounting points of the guide profiles. Depending on the required structural strength, profiles of different sizes are used. For a more solid construction, profiles are used: guides UD27 (28? 27mm), bearing CD60 (60? 27mm). Economy option: guides UD17 (21? 17mm), bearing CD47 (47? 17mm).
The bearing profiles should be located at a distance of 60, 40 or 30 cm between the centers of their axes, which is very important, since the width of the drywall sheets is 120 cm; it is necessary that the seams between the sheets pass in the center of the profiles. The first supporting profile is mounted at a distance of 20-50cm from the corner. The smaller the distance between the vertical profiles, the stronger the structure, but the more profiles will be needed, which will significantly increase installation costs. You can strengthen the design in another way, cheaper: using a two-layer overlap with gypsum boards. In this case, the second layer of plates is placed in such a way as to avoid matching seams.
2. Mounting suspensions and profiles is the most complex and critical process. First, you should cut the profile of the desired length using a grinder or scissors for metal. The upper guide profile is fixed first. To do this, drill holes in the ceiling with a puncher and fix the profile with expansion dowels. A soundproof tape is laid between the profile and the wall. Then, using a plumb line, it is necessary to mark the place of attachment of the lower profile. The method of fastening the lower profile exactly repeats the method of fastening the upper. It is necessary to ensure that both guide profiles are in the same plane strictly vertically one below the other.
Next, fix the side guide profiles. After installing the perimeter from the guide profiles, suspensions are fastened to the wall, which are exposed in a vertical line using a plumb line. Next, 4mm self-tapping screws are attached to the suspensions of the vertical supporting profile. In this case, the evenness of the vertical profiles should be checked with a fishing line stretched between the upper and lower profiles. If the height of the ceilings is more than 2.5 m, then the length of the drywall sheet is not enough, in the joints you will need to install horizontal jumpers, securing them with single-level connectors (“crabs”). In this case, cross-shaped joints between the sheets of drywall should be avoided, therefore the sheets are fixed with offset.
3. Fastening of gypsum plasterboard plates is carried out with special 25mm long self-tapping screws. The first sheet needs to cut a thin edge. Cutting sheets is quite easy: it is enough to cut cardboard with a knife on one side, then break along the cut line on the other. The drywall sheet is installed so that the edge passes in the center of the supporting profile, the screws are screwed until the head is drowned 1 mm into the drywall. First, whole sheets are installed, then inserts. The distance between the screws should be at the edges of 10-15 cm, in the middle of the sheet 20-25 cm. To prevent chips of drywall, the extreme screws are screwed at a distance of 10 cm from the corners of the sheet. In order to improve heat and sound insulation, the space between the drywall boards and the wall can be filled with mineral wool.
4. Sealing of joints should occur at a temperature not lower than + 10 °, in addition, within three days after sealing, the temperature and humidity should not change. All seams and joints are cleaned of dust and primed; in those places where the sheets were not cut, the seams are sealed with a sickle (so that the putty on the joints does not crack). A perforated corner is glued to external corners using putty. Next, the sealing between the sheets of drywall is carried out in two stages: first, fill the cracks and after drying, align the joints. After sealing, the seams are sanded with sandpaper and primed..
The result of this work will be a flat wall, ready for further decoration. Now you can glue wallpaper, putty for painting or glue ceramic tiles. Drywall sheets will hide all the bumps in the wall.