How insulation installed under the bar-shaped house siding
Wooden houses are still the favoriteson the private housing market, because they have the best micro-climate, it is easy to breathe and the heat does not emit any harmful substances. But the level of heat saving can not be achieved to the maximum due to a tree, because the cold will penetrate from the street in the same way that clean air, ie, through the pores of the material. In addition, short-lived tree, and eventually begins to break down its structure, revealing more and more loopholes for the penetration of cold. Therefore, the owners are trying to insulate the walls from rain by a finishing material and additionally insulate. Very often mounted bar-shaped house insulation under the siding, and some owners just sheathe frame. But the log and timber have their own characteristics of insulation. Let us examine them in detail.
- How is the log exterior insulation?
- Recommendations on the outer insulation of a log house
- Which materials insulate better?
- Create a wall of the pie when the outer insulation timber houses
- Selection of insulation thickness
- Laying a vapor barrier
- Mounting battens
- Fixing insulation
- Laying waterproofing
- Creating a ventilation gap
- Installation of siding
How is the log exterior insulation?
House, delivered from whole tree, and looksvery luxurious, so the installation of siding with insulation should not be held until the moment when the tree starts to break down. If you are concerned about the purely economic aspect, then experts estimated: the cost of insulation and finishing in the wooden house of temporary residence (for example, the country), will pay off only in 40 years, and in a residential home - 15-20. But without warming you save the tree as healthy as possible, because there will be obstacles to ventilation.
Another question, if the tree is old and in someplaces became crumble, it is advisable to put the protection from sun and rain, to stop the destructive process. But even in this case, do not rush to warming because teplozolyator whatever you choose, it would be bad for the preservation of wood.
So, basalt and glass fiber insulation,the type of rock or mineral wool, containing many particles in suspension. It's easy to see when vstryahnesh plate. Then the space around you is filled with tiny particles flying. And as the air between the insulation and the log will go, all the suspension will inevitably penetrate into the wood structure, clogging pores, and the part gets to the premises, and you have to breathe it. In addition, the steam coming out of the house, will penetrate into the loose structure of the mineral wool. And if you do not provide adequate ventilation, cotton loses its insulating properties. Moisture will settle on the tree, and the warming of the meaning will come to naught.
Do not use for warmingpolystyrene material, because, regardless of the quality of heat saving, they are poorly absorb moisture. Then, pairs of the rooms did not make its way through the insulation to get to the street and erode. And in the cold condensate will fall on the side of the beam, which is turned to the heater. Instead of a warm house after 10 years you will have a rotten carcass, which will have to change most of the crowns. Question: do you need it?
Recommendations on the outer insulation of a log house
But to protect the old building from the naturalfactors still stands. You can wall insulation from the inside, and on the streets simply sew up the log siding. When properly installed, you will extend the service life of wood about 10 years. For the skin you will need vertical battens. It is worth doing only of timber. He's tough and easier to put on the uneven surface of the log. The thicker the crate, the better ventilated wood and less likelihood of getting a cold in the room. Therefore it is recommended to use a beam 50-a-boo. In addition, it must be remembered that the siding is not stuffed from the roof before the house, and with a gap on both sides of 5 cm. This is necessary to prevent moisture coming out of the wood, could break out.
The only place where insulation is recommended,- The corners of the house. They freeze more than the basic wall by timber location. The best option for insulation of corners - mineral wool, because it is well ventilated. But it is better not to lay under the siding, and a board or wall paneling, creating something like a column, as did the old Russian masters. If you get to combine this with the finish siding, then frame will be maximally protected from freezing.
Which materials insulate better?
Unlike timbered buildings, insulation of wallstimber outside is justified not only an increase in heat-insulating properties of the structure. This allows you to save a useful area of the internal space. If carried out to sheathe the walls inside, then for every 10 sq.m. you will lose about a meter of usable area.
The most suitable wood is consideredtechnology for creating ventilated facades, because it allows the walls to breathe, and thus the microclimate in the house will not change. And siding - one of the best options for exterior finishing.
If we look at what and how warm the house oftimber, it will be polystyrene materials (foam, penoplex etc.) are the least suitable. By themselves, these heaters work well on brick, block buildings, but the wooden walls, regardless of the type of material they are not suitable, as discussed above.
Selection of basalt and glass fiber insulationis enormous, and can be found as low cost options, and quite expensive. They all work about the same due to a loose structure, excellent air retention. Just some of them (mineral wool) can saturate the moisture and lose because of it its properties, and other (stone wool or glass wool) for this lack are deprived. But if you create the right wall cake, the insulation grade is absolutely not important. Consider the installation of external insulation basalt wool for subsequent plating siding.
Create a wall of the pie when the outer insulation timber houses
Selection of insulation thickness
It is best insulation from the outside bar-shaped houseperform not roll, and of plate heaters. They have a higher rigidity, and eventually they will not opolzut down. The thickness of the wool selected taking into account the thickness of the timber. If the walls are made of 150-millimeter bar, then lay 100mm insulation. If the thickness of wood - 200 mm, it is sufficient to 50mm wool.
Laying a vapor barrier
To protect the insulation from the vapor exiting theInside, a bar coat with special waterproof mastic or foil vapor barrier lining. The second option (the film) is preferable because of its isolation quality is higher. The film is fixed to the wall of the stapler, and the joints are glued shut.
At the bar it is only recommended to put a woodenframe. Metal profile will be colder in the winter the main wall, and between them there is a possibility of condensation. Crate stuffed vertically using the plumb and level, because it will be installed siding. And any distortion will lead to distortions of the outer trim.
Step bars are sized according to the widthselected as a heater to be laid without compressing or wrapping laterally. Also it takes into account the distance between the holes for siding (find instructions about this in the installation manual). Make sure the entire frame advance promazhte antiseptic composition for preventing putrefaction.
When the crate is ready, begin warming the housefrom a bar: fixed basalt wool with a special plug-umbrellas, trying not strongly pressed against the wall. A cheaper version of the fixtures -. Screws, length 10 cm to their cap is not "drowned" in the insulation, the engravings of cups of tar paper or plywood and apply them before tightening the screw to the wool. The approximate square meter of insulation is 5 fasteners.
Once the insulation is laid, it is necessary to protectit from moisture from the outside. To do this, lay a crate Superdiffuzionnaya membrane. This particular film in which the surface consists of pores that resemble a funnel. Wide side funnels trail to a heater, and a narrow neck - to the street. This ensures that the output pairs, accidentally fell into a heater, but do not let the water molecules from the siding.
Creating a ventilation gap
On a wooden skeleton it is necessary to fill the rail thickness5 cm, and that between the siding film formed free space. This allows trapped moisture to erode under the finish and settle membrane condensate. Air movement is produced by means of ventilation slots when installing siding, putting it not from the beginning of the roof to the bottom of the wall, and before reaching them for a couple of centimeters.
Installation of siding
On racks stuffed profiles, aligning the horizontal level, and start from the bottom assembly siding.
If the insulation of the house is designed to meet mounting technology, the wooden structure is not afraid of dampness, and the quality of preservation of heat you already feel the first winter.