Rules laying laminate onto the concrete floor
To date, the laminate can be called oneof the most popular types of flooring for the house. But really it deserves attention. It is easy to installation, is relatively inexpensive, has a lot of options of textures and colors and simply beautiful. Customers are happy, sellers are happy! But to buy laminate - it is not so bad, the trouble begins when it comes to its installation, because many do not know even the most basic things about this process. Let's analyze in this article as well done laying the laminate onto the concrete floor and what will have to face during such work.
- Criteria for the selection of laminate
- Stocks of tools and devices
- Required preparatory work
- Leveling concrete floor
- Laying the substrate and vapor barrier
- Installing laminate flooring on a concrete foundation
Criteria for the selection of laminate
To get started go to the store for laminate. Here you will surely confused, because of the number of species, colors and textures you certainly scatter eyes. In order to "collect them in a pile," you need at least a little to have information that will help orient in the sea laminate.
If a choice of colors and textures you have no problemsthere, here with proficiency you will not be dismantled without the consultant. Thus, the laminate can be of two classes: 2 and 3. In turn, these two classes are divided into three subclasses another. Let's see, what do they differ from each other.
Laminate second class is designed for the home, meaning you can use it in your apartment or a country house. Now subclasses:
- 21 - for home use in areas with low permeability, for example, in a bedroom;
- 22 - for home use in rooms with medium traffic (children);
- 23 - for home use in rooms with high permeability (living hall, kitchen.).
third grade laminate is ideal for laying in rooms with very high traffic, that is, in public places.
- 31 - Commercial premises with low permeability. An example of such a room can become a meeting room.
- 32 - Commercial premises with moderate permeability (offices, operating rooms);
- 33 - Commercial premises with a high degree of permeability (shops, salons, boutiques)
If you want your laminate has served youas long as possible, choose the one on the packaging which is the first digit of the grade 3. This floor covering at least 8 years old will delight you with its beauty and impeccable appearance. But laminate second class is also very good. Its average "life expectancy" of about 5 years, plus or minus one year.
Stocks of tools and devices
So, for laminate installation on a concrete floor, you will need the following tools:
- marker, crayon or pencil
- a hammer
- Saw jigsaw or
- block of wood
Required preparatory work
The tool is ready, you, too, then it's time to go to the preparatory works, which are in alignment and adaptation of the laminate floor to the new conditions for him.
Laminate must lie down in the room whereyou it will be laid, at least 2 days. Make sure that the room temperature was within the 20 degrees and the humidity - at least 70%. The packs must be sealed. Thus, the laminate "get used" to the new environment and to their owners. While he was "resting" you can read the instruction, which necessarily available in each package. So you protect yourself from any surprises.
Leveling concrete floor
Before you put the laminate onto the concrete floor, it is necessary to check for irregularities. If they are, then no equalization can not do - laminate loves smooth surfaces without flaws.
To the old, gnarled floor turned intoperfect, you need to take advantage of special mortars for floors. Grown such substance with plain water, and then poured directly onto the concrete. The so-called screed should both be dry, it can take from 2 (if the layer is thin) to 5 days. Do not rely on the producers of such mixtures. They usually claim that their screed dries quickly so that you can walk on it after a few hours. Yes, it is possible to walk on it is really possible, but to lay a laminate in any case it is impossible!
Let's look in more detail at the screed, because this process also requires skill.
- Prepare a concrete base. Take him garbage, dust, various exfoliated fragments and be sure to prime with.
- Make marks on the walls. The most convenient way to start this work with a top-level layout, which is very often set the position of the door or edge trims, as well as the floor in another room. At the corner, adjacent to the door, set the starting point, which corresponds to the level of the finished floor. Take laser or gidrouroven and schedule a similar point in the remaining corners of the room. Then connect them by a straight line using a stretched rope. Thus, you get the level of the finished floor. Now measure out from this line down a distance equal to the thickness of the floor and re-connect the points obtained lines - is the upper limit of the screed.
- Adjust the markers. Markers easiest to install on a small hill from the thick cement mortar (so they will be better to stay). If necessary, you can pin down a hill, or, on the contrary, increase it a bit, pour another solution. The upper edge of the markers must be on the same level as the line marking. To achieve perfect accuracy can be stretched with the help of ropes. The guide markers should be placed along the longest wall of the room at a distance of 20-30 cm from the walls and from each other a distance of about one meter. Before pouring screed, should be given some time to slide out of the solution hardened, or during installation work ties markers may lurch or fall completely.
- Prepare a solution of screed. The large capacity is filled with a dry mixture, water is added in an amount as indicated on the package. With the construction of the mixer solution was stirred until smooth.
- The mixture was poured between two markers andcompacted with a trowel. Care should be taken so that all voids were filled thoroughly. With rules flatten the top of the screed, from the wall. During this work, the rules should abut the edge of the markers. In those places where there is little solution dosypte it to the top-level markers.
The screed is ready, but it still requires careful drying.
In addition to a perfectly flat surface laminate loveseven dry, and thus leveling and drying, check for anywhere moisture or the more mold. If any, the laminate can not be laid! What then to do? After you have bought 20 packs of flooring chic! Quite easily and quickly solved by pouring waterproofing layer, which will be an excellent protection from moisture and other "wet" trouble.
Moisture is destroyed now Clean the house! Vacuuming or broom you need to remove all the small stones, dust and other debris. Keep in mind that even small, with a diameter of 2-3 mm, the stone can damage your laminate.
Laying the substrate and vapor barrier
When installing laminate flooring on a concrete floor or screed must use and insulation film and the substrate - one - protects against moisture, the other - from the noise.
As paroizoliruyuschego materialIt recommended usual polyethylene film, but a thickness of not less than 200 microns. This film must be spread out over the entire area of the room with overlap of 15-20 cm. In the joints to seal it with tape can be stationery.
The film is laid on top of the substrate, whichIt provides a laminate softening blows on screed or concrete floor. Thus, your laminate flooring will not only be "quieter water below the grass" and allows to enjoy the silence, but will last you for years to come. The substrate under a laminate is laid end to end, and the junction also are sealed with tape.
Installing laminate flooring on a concrete foundation
Before laying laminate flooring, check for the presence of each tile marriage. Defective laminate mount is impossible, as the manufacturer's warranty on such products is not covered.
Lay laminate necessary on the direction of lightso that the street light fell from the window of parallel sides. Otherwise, all the seams are very noticeable and you will always think about it, than spoil your mood.
All series have to be laid in turn. Begin the first row should be away from the window, preferably on the left side of it. If the last plank is not included, it should be cut, but in any case, do not leave for later, because all rows must be completed. Do not forget to use and wedges, which must be inserted between the wall and laminate flooring. They will provide a gap of 10-15 mm, which later you close a plinth.
The second row start with the cut board, the remainingfrom the first row. At the end of the second row you will be again a piece, it is used to start the third and so on until the end. In this way you will have the effect of chess, which looks quite original and beautiful.
After finishing the second row at an angle of about 40 degrees, insert it into the lock of the first and a slight touch of snap both series.
To laminate tiles abut eachanother, inciting them with a hammer, but do not knock directly on the items, use for this purpose a piece of wood stockpiled. Thus, you need to mount all of the tiles.
The last row will most likely have to dub forwidth. With a laminate panel to the crest of the wall, mark the cutting line and saw off the unwanted piece of jigsaw. Do not forget that the distance between the wall and laminate should be 10-15 mm.
You may need to make holesVarious communication. Drunk can be the same jigsaw. To do this, measure the diameter of the holes and on the laminate to draw exactly the same, but more than 10 mm. The resulting gap is closed plinth later.
Basically, as you can see, there is nothing difficult ininstalling laminate flooring on a concrete foundation, but there are some quite significant nuances that must be taken into account, so you do not "bite himself for his elbows." Make repairs wisely!