How to align the wooden floor
Wooden floor, even the highest quality, withOver time, "acquires" cracks; board begin to sag, bend. But who wants to shelter under my feet were unsightly spectacle? Just - no. In deciding to "refresh" the living space laying laminate, linoleum or tile, it is important to understand that only quality-adjusted wood floor can become a reliable "base" for the new coating. Why is this event so important? And most importantly - how to align the wooden floor, what methods exist for this? These and other questions will try to answer in this article.
- Why align the floor of the wood?
- Sanding: difficult but possible
- Application of self-leveling compounds
- floor Shpatlevanie
- Laying plywood sheets
Why align the floor of the wood?
Many people wonder: why bother to align the wooden floor? We hasten to assure you that this procedure is very important. It cracks and "Hunchback" old coating can adversely affect the new "decoration" of sex. It does not matter what it is - hard or soft; be it tile, carpet, linoleum or something else - trouble with the wrong approach can not be avoided.
But if soft (eg linoleum) covering moreYou can forgive a small (but rather tiny) wooden irregularities, the tile or laminate flooring to be "outraged" at the slightest flaws. They are always "vzduyutsya" in the defective spot.
The most popular and effective ways to align the wooden floor today is considered to be:
- use self-leveling compounds;
- Shpatlevanie floor;
- laying the plywood sheets.
Sanding: difficult but possible
Perhaps the most difficult way of leveling, butuniquely effective. Ideal for those who do not plan to install a new cover and decided to limit painting or varnishing of "what happened." There are mechanical and manual scraping. The first is done by Scraping machines, the second - with the help of manual tsiklevatelya (broken glass). The manual process is extremely time-consuming and sometimes not justified. Therefore, the mechanical method is more preferable.
By working with the scraping machine to be thoroughly prepared. You will need:
- headphones - to properly isolated from the noise emitted by it;
- respirator - so that in the process not breathe dust;
- gloves, thick gloves - because you reduce the feeling of vibrations from the device.
Important! Prepare not only themselves, but also "processed" room: furniture polyethylene cover, remove the curtains, paintings. So you will be able to keep things from fine dust inevitably formed.
Particularly dangerous for the machine blades is nails and buttons. Hats of the add should be completely drown the floor.
When you have finished with all the preliminary manipulations, you can start to the intended use. Begin to "transformation" from the corner and "move" the snake. So the first layer is removed.
Now we have to close up all cracks, holes, hole filler most suitable color. Continue sanding process is possible only after its complete drying and curing.
If the individual planks are badly damaged,you must remove them ... and turning, back to bed. The procedure will help you avoid the "motley" of colors of the wooden cover: Replace the old board to keep the brand new single tone will not work.
Floor handling in tight spaces (at baseboards) made manually tsiklevatelem.
Upon completion of work necessary to vacuum the room - but do not rush to let all the dust settles. Before painting or varnishing the floor, wipe with a cloth soaked in white spirit.
Application of self-leveling compounds
In your plans do not include varnished? Resolve to lay laminate flooring or tiles? So, one can not do sanding. Especially if the floor without a shudder and did not see.
The best option in this situation may be the use of self-leveling compounds for wood floors. With their help you can get exemplary smooth coating thickness of 5 to 20 mm.
How does the alignment of this kind?
- The original wooden base is in proper form. "The spring" design elements necessary to make stills - come to the aid of screws or screws.
- All caps, as in the case of sanding, you need to go deep into the floor.
- The base must be sanded, thereby purifying it from paint residues, varnish and dirt.
- All nayavnye cracks and voids are sealed sealed with acrylic putty or all of the same self-leveling compounds, divorcee "thicker".
- After drying thereof, the floor is primed special waterproof primer. It will provide good adhesion mixture to the prepared base.
- The walls around the room should be paste over the insulating material.
- In places the "seam" of the walls and the floor seam is created from Styrofoam.
- It should determine the level of self-leveling floor. Be sure to note the minimum and maximum thickness of the coating, declared by the manufacturer.
- For primed floor staple gun mounted reinforcing mesh. The joints of her paintings are connected with an overlap of at least 5 cm.
- The mixture is prepared in accordance with the instructions thoroughly mixed using a drill with a paddle. Let it stand for about 15 minutes, then stir again.
- Cooked "potion" is poured, reinforced surface; bubbles are removed with a roller.
- Level the surface with a spatula, squeegee or rules.
- Drying must be carried out in full compliance with the recommendations on the package. The qualitative result is impossible without respect for the optimum thermal regime.
Be careful! Excess water can provoke its separation in the preparation of the mixture. If you want not only to align the floor, but also to raise the level, the fill should be carried out in two steps.
It should be noted the rapid growthPopularity putty mixtures based on PVA and sawdust (wood). Thanks to them the opportunity to align the wooden floors a sufficiently large area. And the cost of such fillings and makes the process more cost-effective.
- the cleaned floor stuffed beacon rack (level);
- the space between them is filled with a mixture of (consistency a la "thick cream");
- so dust is not pulled too quickly water from the adhesive is recommended to moisten them, and then gently squeeze;
- if you need a thick layer of putty, it is better to do so: form a coating layer in the 1-2 cm - each subsequent applied after complete drying of the previous one;
- We check the level of the result. If necessary, we put additional portions in the "problematic" places.
Lack shpatlevanija - an impressive time period for drying the PVA.
Laying plywood sheets
Quite popular, we can say "hit", the alignment of the wooden floor.
And it begins with the installation of lighthouses - screws,screwed to the desired height. . Their exact location - the corners of a square with sides measuring 20-30 cm and the distance is directly dependent on the plywood thickness: the thicker the plywood, the less established beacons. Then laid logs (plywood strips). To the floor they are attached with glue or screws. If between joists and boards are reviewed "emptiness", it is necessary to fill their bars blurry glue plywood.
Preparation of veneer sheets
Optimal is considered to be cutting plywood. Sheets into squares with sides of about 60 cm Look carefully at the ends of the blanks - there are no bundles? If any, you still found, it is recommended to replace the defective sheet.
Finished squares lay on a pregenerated net lag, watching location plywood joints - they should occur in the logs. The very same is done by laying the brickwork - offset - in order to avoid crossing the four seams. Secured with plywood screws with countersunk head.
Interesting! Pre chalk marking up the joints you will be able to save time and effort: improvisation "in the process" more resource-intensive.
This alignment provides a fairly smooth rough sex, ready to "accept" any coating.
Aligning the wooden floor - it is certainly not easy, but if you strictly adhere to the algorithm of actions and follow professional guidelines, all sure to succeed.